Plants for the Island of Maui
What and How to Plant in Your Area
Click on a spot on the map above to see what plants grow best in that area.
Internet Explorer users, click here to see Zone 5
Click here to see what plants to AVOID
Selection
Select the largest and healthiest specimens. However, be sure to note that they are not pot-bound.
Smaller, younger plants may result in a low rate of plant survival.
1 When selecting native species,
consider the site they are to be planted in, and the space that you have to plant. For example: Mountain
species such as koa and maile will not grow well in hot coastal areas exposed to strong ocean breezes.
Lowland and coastal species such as wiliwili and kou require abundant sunshine and porous soil. They will
not grow well with frequent cloud cover, high rainfall and heavy soil.
Consider too, the size of the species at maturity. Some trees can grow very large.
2 Over-planting tends
to be a big problem in the landscape due to the underestimation of a species' height, width or spread.
A large, dense canopied tree such as the kukui is a good shade tree for a lawn. However, its canopy
size and density of shade will limit what can be planted in the surrounding area. Shade cast by a koa
and ohia lehua is relatively light and will not inhibit growth beneath it.
Keep seasons in mind when you are selecting your plants. Not all plants look good year round. Some
plants such as ilima will look scraggly after they have flowered and formed seeds.
Avoid planting large areas with only one native plant. Mixing plants that naturally grow together
will ensure an attractive garden year round.
3 Studying plants' habitats helps to show how they grow
in the wild.
When planting an area with a mixed ecosystem, keep in mind the size and ecological requirements of
each plant. Start with the hardiest and most easily grown species, and allow space for fragile ones
in subsequent plantings.
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Acquiring Natives
Plants in their wild habitat must be protected and maintained. It is best and easiest to get your
plants from nurseries (see list below), or friend's gardens. Obtain proper permits from landowners
and make sure you follow a few common sense rules:
- collect sparingly from each plant or area.
- some plants are on the state or federal endangered species list. Make sure you get permits (see app. A,B)
Soil
Once you have selected your site and the plants you wish to establish there, you must look at the soil
conditions of the site. Proper soil is necessary for the successful growth of most native plants, which
perform poorly in hard pan, clay or adobe soils. If natives are to be planted in these types of soil,
dig planting holes several times the size of the root-ball and backfill with 50-75% compost.
4 A large
planting hole ensures the development of a strong root system and the compost will give the plant the
nourishment it needs.
5
Native plants should not be planted in ground that is denser than potting soil. If there is no alternative,
mix volcanic cinder into the soil before planting to encourage maximum root development. Fill the hole with
water and if the water tends to puddle or drain too slowly, dig a deeper hole until the water does not puddle
for longer than 1 or 2 minutes.
6 Well-drained soil is one of the most important things when planting natives
as you will see in the next section.
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Irrigation
Most natives do poorly in waterlogged conditions. Do not water if the soil is damp. Water when the soil
is dry and the plants are wilting. Once established, a good soaking twice a week should suffice. Deep soaking
encourages the development of stronger and deeper root systems. This is better than frequent and shallow
watering, which encourage weaker and more shallow root systems.
Red clay soils hold more water for a longer period of time than sandy soils do. If your area is very sunny
or near a beach, the ground will dry out faster. Even within a single garden, there are parts that will
need more or less water. Soils can vary and amount of shade and wind differ. After plants are established
(a month or two for most plants, up to a year for some trees), you can back off watering.
Automatic sprinkler systems are expensive to install and must be checked and adjusted regularly.
Above-ground systems allow you to monitor how much water is being used, but is often inefficient because
of malfunctioning sprinkler heads and wind. Hand-watering is by far the most efficient way to save water
and make sure your plants get the right amount they need.
7
Fertilizer
An all-purpose fertilizer 10-10-10 is adequate for most species. Apply at planting time, 3 months later,
and 6 months thereafter. Use half the dosage recommended for ornamentals and pay special attention to native
ferns, which are sensitive to strong fertilizers. Use organic composts and aged animal manures instead of
chemical fertilizers. In addition, use cinders for providing trace minerals.
8
Native plants were here hundreds of years before the Polynesians inhabited the Hawaiian Islands. They were
brought here by birds, or survived the harsh ocean conditions long enough to float here. They are especially
adapted to Hawaii's varying soil and environmental conditions. This is why they make prime specimens for a
xeriscape garden. However, natives will not thrive on their own, especially under harsh conditions. On the
other hand, like any other plant, if you over-water and over-fertilize them, they will die. Follow the
instructions given to you by the nursery you buy the plant from, or from this page. Better yet, buy a
book (suggested readings can be found in the footnotes below), read it, and learn more about native plants.
You will be pleased with the results.
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Propagation
There are many ways to propagate and plant-out native Hawaiian species. One of the most thorough and
helpful books is Heidi Bornhorst's book, Growing Native Hawaiian Plants. The easiest, and best way to
obtain natives for the novice gardener is to get them from a reputable nursery (see appendix c). That way
all you have to do is know how to transplant (if necessary) or plant-out when you are ready.
Transplanting
- Use a pot that is one size bigger than the pot the plant is in.
- Get your potting medium ready. Good potting medium is a half and half mixture of peat moss and
perlite. If the plant is from a dry or coastal area, add chunks of cinder or extra perlite. If it is a
wet forest species, add more peat moss or compost. Be aware that peat moss is very acidic and certain plants
react severely to acidity.
If the plant is to be planted into the ground later, make a mix of equal parts peat moss, perlite, and soil
from the area in which the plant is to be planted. Slow-release fertilizer can also be mixed into the
potting medium.
- Once the pots, potting medium, fertilizer, and water are ready, you can begin re-potting. Keep the
plant stem at the same depth it was in the original pot. Avoid putting the plant in too large a pot, as
the plant may not be able to soak up all the water in the soil and the roots may drown and rot.
Mix potting medium and add slow-release fertilizer at this time. Pre-wet the medium to keep dust down and
lessen shock to the plant. Put medium in bottom of pot. Measure for the correct depth in the new pot. Make
sure there is ½ to 2 inches from the top of the pot so the plant can get adequate water. Try to stand the
plant upright and center the stem in the middle of the pot.
Water the plant thoroughly after transplanting. A vitamin B-1 transplanting solution can help to lessen the
transplant shock. Keep the plant in the same type of environment as it was before, sun or shade. If roots were
broken, trim off some of the leaves to compensate for the loss.9
Planting Out
- Plant most native Hawaiian plants in a sunny location in soil that is well-drained.
- Make the planting hole twice as wide as the root ball or present pot, and just as deep.
If the soil is clay-like and drains slowly, mix in some coarse red or black cinder, and coarse perlite
or compost. Place some slow-release fertilizer at the bottom of the hole.
- Carefully remove the plant from the container and place it in the hole. The top of the soil should
be at the same level as the top of the hole. If it is too high or too low, adjust the soil level so that
the plant is at the right depth.
- Water thoroughly after you transplant.
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Mulch
Most natives cannot compete with weeds, and therefore must be weeded around constantly in
order to thrive. Mulch is a practical alternative, which discourages and prevents weeds from growing.
Hawaii's hot, humid climate leads to the breakdown of organic mulches. However, thick organic mulches
such as wood chips and leaves also make good hiding places for pests.
Stone mulches are attractive, permanent and can help to improve soil quality. Red or black cinder,
blue rock chips, smooth river rocks and coral chips are some natural choices.
10 Macadamia nut hulls
are also easy to find and can make a nice mulch.
11
Never pile up mulch right next to the stem or trunk of a plant, keep it a few inches away.
Places To See Native Plants
The following places propagate native Hawaiian plants from seeds and/or cuttings. Their
purpose is to protect and preserve these native plants and they can provide valuable information
and referral to other sources. Please contact them before going to view the sites.
| Name |
Address |
Phone Number |
| Hoolawa Farms |
P.O. Box 731, Haiku, Hawaii, 96708 |
575-5099 |
| The Hawaiian Collection |
1127 Manu St., Kula, Hawaii, 96790 |
878-1701 |
| Kula Botanical Gardens |
RR 4, Box 228, Kula, Hawaii, 96790 |
878-1715 |
| Maui Nui Botanical Gardens |
150 Kanaloa Avenue, across from stadium
former Maui Zoo & Botanical Gardens |
249-2798 |
| Kula Forest Reserve |
access road at the end of Waipouli Rd.
Call the Maui District Forester |
984-8100 |
| Wailea Point |
private condominium residence
4000 Wailea Alanui, public access points
at Four Seasons Resort or Polo Beach |
875-9557 |
| Kahanu Gardens |
National Tropical Botanical Garden
Alau Place, Hana 96713 |
248-8912 |
| Kahului Library Courtyard |
20 School Street, Kahului, Hawaii |
873-3097 |
| University of Hawaii Botany Department: Native Hawaiian Plant Website |
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Zones
The Maui County Planting Plan and the Department of Water Supply have compiled a system of 5 zones of plant growth for Maui County.
| Zone Number |
Zone Description |
| Zone 1 |
Wet areas on the windward side of the island. More than 40 inches of rain per year. Higher than 3,000 feet. |
| Zone 2 |
Cool, dry areas in higher elevations (above 1,000 feet). 20 to 40 inches of rain per year. |
| Zone 3 |
Low, drier areas, warm to hot. Less than 20 inches of rain per year. Sea level to 1,000 feet. |
| Zone 4 |
Lower elevations which are wetter due to proximity of mountains. 1,000 to 3,000 feet. |
| Zone 5 |
Salt spray zones in coastal areas on the windward side. |
